There’s something to be said for lodging that’s conveniently located close to restaurants, shops, and gas stations. You can park your car at the end of the day and simply walk to dinner. On the other hand, laying your head down at night in a peaceful location where you hear nothing but crickets chirping can be the perfect end to your day in Utah canyon country. These five scenic places to stay will guarantee you gorgeous red rock views and a dark, starry sky at night.
Castle Valley Inn
The small town of Castle Valley (population 324) is 17 scenic miles up the “river road” (Highway 128) from Moab. It may seem like an inconvenience to be that far from Moab, but you’ll forget about the drive once you see the Castle Valley Inn’s location: a quiet valley surrounded by 360-degree views of redrock pinnacles and sandstone rims. Jason and Jeanette are the friendly owners who’ve been running the place, now with the help of an innkeeper, since they purchased it in 2010. Rooms come with a generous full breakfast, including dishes such as frittata, eggs Florentine, and apple-topped pancakes. They’ll even accommodate special diets, as long as you let them know in advance. As if she didn’t have enough to keep her busy during the day, Jeanette whips up a homemade dessert each afternoon, which is left in the common sitting room for all guests to enjoy. In the evening, you can soak in the hot tub under the stars, read a book, or watch a video from the inn’s library.
Reservations: castlevalleyinn.com, 435-259-6012
Valley of the Gods Bed and Breakfast
You often hear people talk about living “off the grid.” Well, this is the real deal, folks. Located between Bluff and Mexican Hat, the inn lies at the bottom of the famous Moki Dugway—a graded dirt road that switchbacks down the cliffs of Cedar Mesa. Gary and Claire Dorgan have built the only home within the 360,000 acres that make up the Cedar Mesa Cultural and Recreational Management Area. Electricity and hot water are generated by solar and wind power, and water must be trucked in from nearby Mexican Hat. All rooms have private baths and include a full breakfast. I once overheard someone at the overlook at the top of the Moki Dugway say, “Why on Earth would someone want to live down there?” I thought to myself, “Why would someone NOT?” If you’re looking for scenic lodging, this is one place you don’t want to miss.
Reservations: valleyofthegodsbandb.com, 970-749-1164.
Red Cliffs Lodge
About 20 miles from Moab in the Castle Valley area is Red Cliffs Lodge, with inspiring redrock views and a setting right on the Colorado River. The full-service resort has an on-site restaurant, a small gift store, a winery (which offers tastings), and a movie museum featuring artifacts from some of the many films made in the Moab area. Head to the bar in the evening for a drink that you can sip on the outside deck while watching the sunset. Rooms have private patios, many with river views, and kitchens. So if you’re inclined to eat a peaceful dinner “at home,” you can bring your own food and cook in your room. The lodge will also arrange activities for you, such as jeep tours and trail rides.
Reservations: redcliffslodge.com, 866-812-2002.
Kiva Kottage
About midway between the towns of Boulder and Escalante on Utah’s Scenic Byway 12 is a unique structure that many visitors refer to as “an experience not to be missed in southern Utah.” Created by the late artist and engineer Bradshaw Bowman, the main building is crafted from logs, stone, and glass and houses the Kiva Koffeehouse. Situated beneath the “Kiva” on the rim are two spacious cottages with redrock views that you’ll have to pinch yourself to believe. Each cottage is tastefully but simply decorated and has a jetted tub, refrigerator, fireplace, and small dining table. Although the location is adjacent to Hwy 12, traffic tends to be light after dark, and you’ll enjoy killer sunsets and a peaceful star-filled sky from your large picture window or the outdoor sitting area.
Reservations: kivakoffeehouse.com, 435-826-4550.
Goblin Valley State Park Yurts
If you’ve ever wanted to pretend you’re on Mars, Goblin Valley State Park is about as close as you can get to a Martian landscape on Earth. Consider spending a night or two in one of the park’s yurts—circular structures built on a wooden deck. Note that this is not a resort experience; this is roughing it a bit. But the peace and quiet and dark, starry sky will be worth the risk of possibly going part of the night without electricity (it’s solar-powered, so it can potentially run out in the middle of the night). The yurts offer bunk beds, a dining table and chairs, electricity, and propane heating stove. Bring your own linens or sleeping bags. An adjacent campground provides hot showers, which you’ll really appreciate after a day of dusty hiking among the goblins. Note: These yurts book up far in advance, so plan accordingly.
Reservations: reserveamerica.com, 800-322-3770.
